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Metro TV & AppliancesAppliance Troubleshooting Guide
Before you call for repair, check these common issues. Some problems have simple fixes you can handle yourself. When the problem is beyond a quick fix, we are here to help.
Simple Fixes vs. Professional Repair
Not every appliance problem requires a service call. A refrigerator that is not cooling may just need its condenser coils cleaned. A dryer that takes too long might have a clogged exhaust vent. A dishwasher that leaves residue could need a filter cleaning. These are things you can check in minutes.
Other problems—compressor failures, gas valve malfunctions, sealed system leaks, electrical faults behind panels—require a trained technician with the right diagnostic tools and genuine OEM parts. Attempting these repairs without proper training can be dangerous and may void your warranty.
Metro TV & Appliances has been diagnosing and repairing appliances since 1947. The guide below covers the most common issues we see across refrigerators, washers, dryers, dishwashers, and ranges. Work through the basic checks first. If the problem persists, call us at (402) 466-9090 and we will take it from there.
Refrigerator Troubleshooting
Check the thermostat settings. Someone may have bumped the temperature dial or adjusted it by mistake. Most refrigerators should be set to 37°F for the fresh food compartment and 0°F for the freezer.
Clean the condenser coils. These are located on the back or underside of the unit. Dust and pet hair accumulate on the coils and reduce cooling efficiency. Use a coil brush or vacuum to clean them. This is one of the most overlooked maintenance items and one of the most common causes of poor cooling.
Check for blocked vents. The vents inside the refrigerator and freezer compartments allow cold air to circulate. If food containers are packed tightly against these vents, airflow is restricted and temperatures rise.
Inspect the door gasket. Close the door on a dollar bill. If you can pull the bill out easily, the gasket is not sealing properly. Warm air entering through a compromised gasket forces the compressor to work harder. Look for cracks, tears, or areas where the gasket has pulled away from the door.
Rattling: Usually means something is loose or the unit is not level. Check that the refrigerator sits flat on the floor and that nothing is resting against the back or sides of the unit.
Buzzing or humming: A steady hum is typically the compressor running normally. This is expected and not a sign of a problem.
Clicking: Repeated clicking can indicate a relay issue—the compressor is trying to start but cannot engage. If clicking is persistent or the unit stops cooling, this requires professional attention.
Clogged defrost drain. The defrost drain is inside the freezer compartment and can become blocked with ice or debris over time. Try flushing it with warm water using a turkey baster or small funnel.
Damaged water supply line. If the leak is coming from behind the unit, check the water supply line that feeds the ice maker and water dispenser. Look for kinks, cracks, or drips at the connection point where the line meets the refrigerator.
Water supply valve. Verify the water supply valve behind the refrigerator is fully open. A partially closed valve restricts flow.
Water filter. A clogged water filter reduces water pressure to the ice maker. Replace the filter according to the manufacturer's recommended interval—typically every six months.
Freezer temperature. The freezer must be at or below 0°F for the ice maker to function properly. If the freezer is too warm, the ice maker will not cycle.
If the compressor will not start, if there is a refrigerant leak (you may notice an oily residue near tubing), if the unit trips a circuit breaker repeatedly, or if the control board is not responding, these are not do-it-yourself repairs. Sealed system work on a refrigerator requires specialized equipment and EPA-certified handling of refrigerants. Call us at (402) 466-9090.
Washing Machine Troubleshooting
Unbalanced load. This is the most common cause. Open the lid, redistribute the clothes evenly around the drum, and restart the spin cycle. Heavy items like towels and jeans can shift to one side and trigger a safety shutoff.
Kinked drain hose. Pull the machine away from the wall and check that the drain hose is not pinched, kinked, or pressed against the wall. A restricted hose prevents water from leaving the tub.
Lid switch (top-load). The lid switch must be engaged for the spin cycle to activate. If the switch is broken or misaligned, the washer fills and agitates but will not spin. You can test this by pressing the switch manually with a pen while the lid is open—if the washer starts spinning, the switch mechanism needs repair.
Door latch (front-load). Front-load washers have an electronic door latch that must fully engage before any cycle begins. If the latch is not clicking into place, inspect it for debris or damage.
Supply hose connections. Check the hot and cold water supply hoses at the back of the machine. Hand-tighten the connections or replace the rubber washers inside the hose fittings if they drip.
Door boot seal (front-load). Inspect the rubber door boot seal for tears, debris, or mold buildup that prevents a proper seal. Small objects like coins or hair ties can lodge in the seal and create gaps.
Overloading. Putting too many items in the washer can cause water to overflow during the wash cycle. Follow the manufacturer's load capacity guidelines.
Power supply. Confirm the machine is plugged in and the outlet has power. Try plugging another device into the same outlet to test. Check your home's circuit breaker panel for a tripped breaker.
Door or lid latch. The machine will not start unless the door or lid is fully closed and latched. Check that nothing is blocking the latch mechanism.
Control board. If the machine has power and the door is secured but still will not start, the electronic control board may have failed. This requires professional diagnosis.
Leveling feet. All four feet must be in solid contact with the floor. Use a level to check and adjust the feet as needed. Uneven flooring is a common cause of vibration.
Shipping bolts (new washers). New washing machines come with shipping bolts that secure the drum during transit. If these bolts were not removed during installation, the drum cannot move freely and the machine will vibrate violently. Check your installation guide or look for bolts on the back of the unit.
Motor failure, transmission problems, bearing replacement, and persistent error codes on the display panel all require professional service. If your washer displays an error code you cannot find in the owner's manual, write it down and call us at (402) 466-9090. Our technicians have access to manufacturer diagnostic systems that can decode error codes and identify the failed component.
Dryer Troubleshooting
Clean the lint trap. A clogged lint trap restricts airflow and can cause the dryer to overheat and shut off its heating element as a safety measure. Clean the lint trap before every load.
Check the exhaust vent. Disconnect the vent duct from the back of the dryer and inspect it for lint buildup. A clogged exhaust vent is the single most common cause of a dryer that runs but does not produce heat. Lint accumulates in the duct over months and years, gradually restricting airflow until the dryer can no longer maintain temperature.
Thermal fuse. If the vent was clogged and the dryer overheated, the thermal fuse may have blown. A blown thermal fuse is a one-time safety device—it does not reset. It must be replaced. This is a relatively inexpensive part, but accessing it requires opening the dryer cabinet.
Gas supply (gas dryers). Confirm the gas supply valve behind the dryer is fully open. If the valve is open but you do not smell gas and the igniter does not glow, the gas valve solenoid may have failed.
Vent restriction. Even a partially blocked vent reduces drying performance. Clean the entire vent duct from the dryer to the exterior wall cap. Flexible foil or vinyl duct is more prone to lint accumulation than rigid metal duct.
Overloading. Clothes need room to tumble for proper drying. If the drum is packed full, moisture has no way to escape. Dry smaller loads.
Moisture sensor. Many dryers have moisture sensor bars inside the drum that detect when clothes are dry. Over time, these bars can become coated with dryer sheet residue and give false readings, causing the dryer to shut off prematurely. Wipe the sensor bars with rubbing alcohol and a soft cloth.
Drum rollers. A thumping or rumbling noise usually indicates worn drum rollers. These are small wheels that support the drum as it rotates. Over time, they wear flat and produce noise.
Belt. A squealing or squeaking sound can indicate a worn or fraying drive belt. The belt wraps around the drum and connects to the motor. As it wears, it may slip and squeal.
Idler pulley. A high-pitched squeak or scraping noise may be the idler pulley, which maintains tension on the drive belt. When the bearing inside the pulley fails, it produces a distinct noise.
Gas valve solenoid replacement, heating element replacement, motor failure, and any electrical issue behind the dryer's access panels require professional service. Never attempt to repair gas dryer components yourself if you are not trained to work with gas connections. Call us at (402) 466-9090 for safe, factory-authorized dryer repair.
Dishwasher Troubleshooting
Inspect the spray arms. Remove the spray arms and check the small holes for clogs. Food particles, mineral deposits, and debris can block the openings and reduce water pressure. Rinse the spray arms under running water and use a toothpick to clear any blocked holes.
Water temperature. Run hot water at the kitchen faucet before starting the dishwasher. This ensures the first fill cycle begins with hot water instead of cold. Water should be at least 120°F for effective cleaning.
Detergent. Use the correct amount of detergent for your water hardness. Too little detergent leaves food residue. Too much can leave a film on dishes. If you have hard water, consider using a rinse aid.
Loading. Avoid overcrowding the racks. Dishes that are too close together block water circulation. Face soiled surfaces toward the spray arms. Do not nest bowls or cups.
Clean the filter. Most newer dishwashers have a removable filter at the bottom of the tub that catches food debris. Remove it, rinse it under running water, and scrub it with a soft brush. A clogged filter is the most common cause of drainage problems.
Check the drain hose. The drain hose runs from the dishwasher to the sink drain or garbage disposal. Make sure it is not kinked or pinched under the counter.
Garbage disposal knockout plug. If your dishwasher connects to a garbage disposal, the knockout plug inside the disposal inlet must be removed during installation. If the plug is still in place, water from the dishwasher has nowhere to go. This is a very common issue in new installations or after a disposal replacement. You can check by shining a flashlight into the disposal inlet where the dishwasher hose connects.
Door gasket. Inspect the rubber gasket around the door opening for cracks, tears, or food buildup. Clean the gasket with a damp cloth and check that it makes a uniform seal when the door is closed.
Spray arm. A cracked or loose spray arm can direct water toward the door seal rather than upward onto the dishes. Remove the spray arm and inspect it for damage.
Water inlet valve. If water pools under the dishwasher when it is not running, the inlet valve may be failing to close fully. This allows water to slowly fill the tub and overflow. This requires professional replacement.
Pump motor failure, electronic control board issues, and water inlet valve replacement are not do-it-yourself repairs. If the dishwasher will not start at all, displays error codes, or leaks from the bottom, call us at (402) 466-9090. We will diagnose the issue and repair it with genuine OEM parts.
Range & Oven Troubleshooting
Burner cap alignment. Remove the burner cap and reseat it. A misaligned cap is one of the most common reasons a gas burner will not light. The cap must sit flat and centered over the burner base for the igniter to reach the gas.
Clean around the igniter. Use a small brush or old toothbrush to clean food debris and grease from around the igniter electrode. Buildup can prevent the spark from reaching the gas.
Gas supply. Confirm the gas supply valve behind the range is fully open. If other gas appliances in your home are working, the supply is likely fine.
If you smell gas without a flame, turn off the gas immediately and call a professional. Do not attempt to troubleshoot a gas leak yourself.
Bake or broil element (electric ovens). Look at the bake element at the bottom of the oven or the broil element at the top. When working, the element should glow red evenly. If it has visible damage—blisters, breaks, or burn marks—it has failed and needs replacement.
Gas igniter (gas ovens). The oven igniter must get hot enough to open the gas valve. If the igniter glows but the oven does not light, the igniter may be too weak to open the valve even though it appears to work. This is a common and somewhat counterintuitive failure—the igniter looks like it is working, but it is not generating enough heat. This requires professional testing with a multimeter.
Gas valve. If the igniter does not glow at all, the gas safety valve or wiring may be the issue. Do not attempt gas valve repairs yourself.
Calibration. Most ovens allow you to calibrate the temperature through the settings or control panel menu. Check your owner's manual for the calibration procedure. You can adjust the offset in small increments (typically 5–10 degrees at a time).
Temperature sensor. The oven temperature sensor is a thin metal probe or rod mounted inside the oven cavity, usually on the back wall. If this sensor is faulty, the oven cannot accurately regulate temperature. You can test its resistance with a multimeter—at room temperature, most sensors read around 1,080 to 1,100 ohms. If the reading is significantly off, the sensor needs replacement.
Control board. If calibration does not help and the sensor tests good, the electronic control board may not be interpreting the sensor signal correctly. This requires professional diagnosis.
Gas line issues should always be handled by a professional. Never attempt repairs to gas supply lines, gas valves, or regulators. Beyond gas safety, oven igniters, bake/broil elements, and control boards all require professional replacement. If you smell gas and cannot identify the source, leave your home and call your gas utility company first, then call us at (402) 466-9090 for the appliance repair.
Induction Range & Cooktop Troubleshooting
Induction cooktops work differently from gas and traditional electric ranges. They use magnetic fields to heat cookware directly, which means troubleshooting is different too.
Check your cookware. Induction only works with ferromagnetic cookware (cast iron, most stainless steel). Test with a magnet — if a magnet sticks firmly to the bottom of the pot, it will work on induction. Aluminum, copper, glass, and ceramic cookware will not work.
Pan size. The cookware must be large enough to cover the induction element. Most induction cooktops require the pan bottom to cover at least 60-70% of the cooking zone to activate. Small pots on large zones may not be detected.
Pan detection error. If the cooktop displays a "no pan" error with compatible cookware, ensure the pot sits flat on the surface. Warped or dented pan bottoms may not make sufficient contact for the sensor to detect them.
Power supply. Induction cooktops require a dedicated 240V circuit. If the cooktop is losing power intermittently, the circuit breaker may be tripping due to high current draw, especially if multiple zones are at maximum power. Check your electrical panel.
Most induction cooktops display error codes on the digital display. Common codes across brands:
E / F codes with numbers (e.g., E0, E1, F1, F3): Typically indicate sensor or electrical faults. Write down the exact code before resetting.
H codes: Usually indicate overheating. The cooktop has a safety shutoff. Let it cool completely (15-20 minutes), then try again. If it recurs, ventilation under the cooktop may be blocked.
Pan icon flashing: Incompatible or incorrectly placed cookware. Try a different pan or reposition the current one.
Some noise is normal with induction cooking. A low hum or buzz comes from the magnetic field vibrating the cookware. Heavier, flat-bottomed pans tend to be quieter. Lightweight stainless steel may buzz more. A fan noise is the internal cooling fan — completely normal and may continue after cooking stops to cool the electronics.
Induction cooktops contain sensitive electronics. If you see persistent error codes, experience intermittent power loss, notice cracked glass surfaces, or the cooktop heats unevenly, call us at (402) 466-9090. We service Samsung, LG, GE/GE Profile, Electrolux, Frigidaire, and KitchenAid induction cooktops with genuine OEM parts.
Error Code Quick Reference
As a Samsung Established Authorized Service Center (ASC) and factory-authorized service center for LG, GE, Electrolux, Frigidaire, Maytag, KitchenAid, and more, our technicians are trained to diagnose every error code these brands display. Below are the most common codes you may encounter.
Samsung Washer Error Codes
| Code | Meaning | What to Try |
|---|---|---|
4E / 4C | Water not filling | Open supply valves fully, check for kinked hoses, clean inlet filters |
5E / 5C | Not draining | Check drain hose for clogs, clean debris filter at front-bottom of washer |
UE / DC | Unbalanced load | Redistribute laundry evenly, avoid single heavy items |
dE / dC | Door not locked | Remove items caught in door seal, firmly close and press start |
SUd | Excessive suds | Use HE detergent only; washer pauses to allow suds to dissipate |
1E / LE | Water level / leak sensor | Check for leaks, verify hoses are secure. If persistent, call us |
9C1 / PF | Voltage / power issue | Use dedicated outlet, no extension cords. Check breaker |
Samsung Refrigerator Error Codes
| Code | Meaning | What to Try |
|---|---|---|
OF OF | Cooling Off (Demo Mode) | Hold Energy Saver + Power Freeze for 8 seconds to exit demo mode |
PC ER | Communication error | Unplug for 2 minutes, plug back in. If persistent, call us |
5E | Fridge sensor error | Do not unplug — call us. Leaving the code active helps diagnosis |
8E | Ice maker sensor error | Do not unplug — call for service |
22E / 22C | Fridge fan error | Check if items are blocking the internal vents. Call us if persistent |
41 / 42 | Software update in progress | Wait for update to complete; do not unplug |
Samsung tip: Unless specifically instructed, do not unplug a Samsung refrigerator showing an error code. Taking this action may make it more difficult for our technician to accurately diagnose the issue.
LG Washer Error Codes
| Code | Meaning | What to Try |
|---|---|---|
OE | Drain error | Clean pump filter (front-bottom panel), check drain hose for kinks, ensure drain height ≤ 53" |
IE | Water supply error | Open taps fully, check hoses, clean inlet filters |
UE | Unbalanced load | Redistribute items, add small items to balance, check leveling feet |
DE | Door lock error | Open and firmly close door, check for caught clothes, ensure nothing pushes door outward |
LE | Motor overloaded | Wait 30 minutes to cool. Reduce load size and restart |
FE | Overfilling | Close water taps, select drain/no-spin cycle, then restart |
tCL | Tub clean cycle due | Not an error. Run tub clean cycle with ¼ cup bleach diluted in water |
CL | Child lock active | Press and hold the child lock button for 3 seconds to deactivate |
GE / Maytag / KitchenAid Common Error Codes
| Code | Appliance | Meaning |
|---|---|---|
F0 E1 | Washer | Long fill — check water supply valves and hoses |
F0 E2 | Washer | Excessive suds — use HE detergent, reduce amount |
F5 E2 | Washer | Door lock error — check latch, firmly close door |
F9 E1 | Washer | Long drain — check drain hose and filter for clogs |
F2 E0 | Range/Oven | Oven temperature too high — turn off, call for service |
F1 E1 | Range/Oven | Control board error — unplug for 1 minute, try again |
E1 F5 | Dishwasher | Door switch error — check door latch alignment |
Electrolux / Frigidaire Error Codes
| Code | Appliance | Meaning |
|---|---|---|
E11 | Washer | Fill time too long — check water supply valves and inlet hoses |
E13 | Washer | Water leak detected — check hoses and door seal |
E21 | Washer | Drain time too long — check drain hose and pump filter |
E35 | Washer | Overfill — close taps, run drain cycle |
E40 / E41 | Washer | Door lock error — check door seal, firmly close |
5H | Refrigerator | High temperature alert — check thermostat, door seal, condenser coils |
SY | Refrigerator | System error — unplug for 5 minutes, plug back in |
E11 | Dryer | Communication error — unplug, check connections |
F10 | Range/Oven | Oven overheated — turn off immediately, call for service |
F30 / F31 | Range/Oven | Temperature sensor open/shorted — call for service |
Electrolux Group brands include Electrolux, Frigidaire, Frigidaire Gallery, Frigidaire Professional, and AEG. Error code patterns are similar across the lineup.
Brand Families We Service
Many appliance brands share parent companies, which means similar parts, error codes, and repair procedures:
Can't find your error code? Write down the exact code displayed (including any letters, numbers, and flashing patterns) and call us at (402) 466-9090. Our technicians have access to complete manufacturer diagnostic databases for every brand we service. Having the code ready when you call helps us diagnose faster and often allows us to bring the right part on the first visit.
When to Call a Professional
Basic troubleshooting can resolve many common appliance problems. But some issues should never be a do-it-yourself project. Call a factory-authorized technician whenever you encounter any of the following:
Always call a professional for:
• Anything involving gas lines. Gas leaks and gas valve failures are dangerous. If you smell gas, leave the area and call your gas utility company, then call a professional for the appliance repair.
• Electrical components behind access panels. The components inside your appliance operate at high voltage. Capacitors can retain a charge even when the appliance is unplugged.
• Sealed refrigeration systems. Compressor replacement, refrigerant recharging, and sealed system repairs require EPA certification and specialized equipment.
• Error codes you cannot identify. Modern appliances use electronic control boards that display diagnostic error codes. Our technicians have access to manufacturer diagnostic databases that decode these errors and identify the specific failed component.
• Problems that persist after basic troubleshooting. If you have tried the steps in this guide and the issue remains, the root cause is likely deeper than a simple fix.
• Any repair you are not comfortable performing yourself. There is no shame in calling for help. That is what we are here for. A professional repair done right the first time is always better than a DIY attempt that makes the problem worse.
Still Not Sure What's Wrong?
If you have worked through the troubleshooting steps above and the problem persists—or if the issue is beyond basic troubleshooting—we are here to help. Metro TV & Appliances provides factory-authorized appliance repair across 200+ zip codes in Nebraska and Iowa. We use genuine OEM parts and our technicians have access to manufacturer diagnostic tools that are not available to the general public.